Most people don’t think twice before dropping a penny into a tip jar or leaving one behind at the store. After all, it’s just a cent — what could it be worth?
Well, sometimes a lot more than you’d expect. There are real stories of people finding strange-looking pennies in their pocket change and later discovering they were worth hundreds — or even thousands — of dollars. It may sound too good to be true, but it’s not.
If you’ve ever explored an error pennies list with pictures, you already know that a minor minting mistake can mean major value. These “error coins” weren’t damaged after they left the mint — they were born flawed. And in the world of coin collecting, flaws can be a good thing
So, here we are going to discover how to spot those rare and valuable mistakes. You’ll see real examples, understand what to look for, and learn where these errors happen during the minting process — because once you know what you’re looking at, you may never look at your spare change the same way again.
Why Penny Errors Happen: The Anatomy of a Mint Mistake
Before we get into the list of valuable errors, it helps to know how coins are made — and how things can go wrong.
U.S. coins are made at massive facilities like the Philadelphia and Denver Mints, where billions of pennies are struck every year. The process starts with a blank metal disc called a planchet. That planchet is placed between two metal dies — one for the front design, and one for the back. Then, under tons of pressure, the dies stamp the design onto the planchet.
But with millions of coins being produced each day, it’s no surprise that mistakes happen. Here are a few of the most common causes:
- Misaligned dies can strike the coin off-center, leaving part of the design missing.
- Damaged dies can create cracks, blobs, or even ghost-like images from the opposite side of the coin (known as a die clash).
- Wrong planchets sometimes slip into the press — for example, a copper disc when it should’ve been zinc.
- And before 1990, mintmarks were added by hand, which made repunched marks surprisingly common.
Fun fact: With over 7 billion pennies struck in a single year, even rare errors can exist in decent numbers — they’re just hiding in plain sight.
9 Penny Errors Worth More Than You Think — With Real Examples
- 1955 Doubled Die Obverse (DDO)
This is one of the most famous penny errors out there. Due to a misalignment during die creation, the front of the coin was stamped with doubled letters, especially on the words “LIBERTY” and “IN GOD WE TRUST.” The doubling is bold — you don’t even need a magnifier to see it.
Tip: This coin stands out even to untrained eyes — if the letters look blurry or layered, you might have something special.
- Value: $1,500–$15,000+ depending on condition.
- 1943 Steel Penny – 50% Off-Center Strike
In 1943, because of copper shortages during WWII, pennies were made from zinc-coated steel. That alone makes them unique. But when the coin is struck off-center — meaning the die didn’t hit it squarely — part of the design ends up missing, and the rest is pushed to one side. A 50% off-center strike means half the coin is blank, and the other half shows the design.
Why it matters: Steel pennies are harder to mint, so major striking errors like this are rarer than others. If the date is still visible, collectors pay even more.
- Value: $1,000–$2,000+
- 1960-D RPM (Repunched Mintmark)
Before 1990, the “D” (for Denver) mintmark was punched onto the die by hand. Sometimes, it was punched more than once by accident, creating a doubled or shadowed mintmark. That’s known as an RPM — repunched mintmark.
How to check: Look closely at the “D” on a 1960 penny. If you see a slight outline or a second curve underneath, it could be an RPM.
- Value: $25–$100+, depending on clarity and grade.
- Wide AM (1998, 1999, 2000)
On most Lincoln cents from the late 1990s and early 2000s, the letters “A” and “M” in the word “AMERICA” on the reverse are placed very close together — almost touching. But in some rare cases, the coin was struck with a reverse die intended for proof coins, where the “A” and “M” are set farther apart, creating what collectors call a Wide AM.
How to spot it: Flip the penny over and look closely at “AMERICA.” Use a magnifier or take a photo and zoom in. If there’s a clear space between the A and M, you might have a winner.
Why it happened: These proof dies were never meant for circulation coins — but a few slipped through at the Mint.
- Value: $5–$600+, depending on condition and year.
- 1982-D Small Date Copper (Transitional Error)
In 1982, the U.S. Mint switched from copper pennies (3.11 grams) to zinc-coated ones (2.5 grams). Most 1982 pennies are zinc. But a few rare ones — specifically Denver-minted Small Date coins — were accidentally struck on leftover copper planchets. This is what collectors call a transitional error.
How to test it: The only way to tell is by weighing the coin. A copper penny weighs 3.11 grams, while a zinc one is only 2.5. You’ll need a digital jewelry scale that measures to two decimal places.
Collector tip: Use an app like Coin ID Scanner — it can help you check the type, metal, and even estimated value by scanning the coin and giving comparison data.
- Value: $10,000–$20,000+ — yes, really.
- BIE Error (1950s)
This quirky error shows up as a tiny vertical line between the B and E in “LIBERTY”, making it look like there’s an “I” in between — hence the nickname BIE error. It’s caused by a die crack forming during use.
Where to find it: Most common on Lincoln cents from the 1950s, especially in circulated condition.
Fun fact: Even though it’s technically just a crack, many collectors treat BIEs as a separate variety and build full sets of them.
- Value: $5–$50+
- Blank Planchet
A blank planchet is a coin that never got struck with a design. It made it all the way through the minting process without ever being stamped — so it just looks like a smooth, round metal disc.
How to confirm it’s real: A genuine blank planchet will have a raised rim and be uniformly smooth — not scratched or worn down like a damaged coin. It should also match the size and weight of a regular penny.
- Value: $5–$50+
- Die Clash Error
This happens when the coin dies strike each other without a planchet in between. The designs from each die leave faint impressions on the opposite die, and these get transferred to coins during the next strikes. The result? You’ll see ghost-like images of parts of the design where they shouldn’t be.
Example: On the front (obverse) of a Lincoln cent, you might see the outline of the Lincoln Memorial — which belongs on the back!
The stronger the clash, the better: Coins with visible and centered clash marks are worth more.
- Value: $10–$200+
- Cud Error (e.g., 1980 Lincoln Cent)
A cud occurs when a piece of the die breaks off, leaving a raised blob or “flap” on the coin’s surface — usually along the rim. These can look like metal blobs, missing letters, or bulges that weren’t supposed to be there.
Where to look: Around the rim of the coin. Common areas are near the date or above “LIBERTY.”
Fun fact: Since each cud is unique, collectors nickname them — like “Liberty Blob” or “Top Rim Cud.”
- Value: $10–$100+, depending on size and location.
Real or Ruined? How to Tell Error from Damage
Not every weird-looking penny is a valuable mint error. Many are just victims of time, weather, or curious pocketknife owners. So how can you tell the difference between a real error and simple damage?
Here are some tips:
- Look for symmetry. Most true mint errors — like off-center strikes or doubling — have some level of balance or repeated pattern. Random dings or scratches usually don’t.
- Check the location. Errors often show up in the same areas: date, rim, lettering. Random damage is more scattered.
- Use a magnifier. A good 10x loupe can help you see fine details like repunched mintmarks or die cracks.
- Compare with verified examples. Use trusted websites or apps to compare your coin to confirmed errors.
Tip: Photos on PCGS, NGC, or Coin ID Scanner are excellent for side-by-side checks.
If you’re still unsure, consider showing the coin to a local coin dealer or getting a professional grading opinion. Because when it comes to errors, the line between trash and treasure is razor thin — and that strange-looking penny could be your next big find.
Where to Look: Your Own Pocket Change Could Be a Goldmine
Now that you know what to look for, the big question is — where do you even find these error pennies? Good news: you don’t need to be a professional coin hunter or spend a fortune on rare collections. Some of the most valuable errors were found in the most ordinary places. Here are the best spots to start your hunt:
Everyday Pocket Change
The easiest place to start is your own wallet. Pennies still circulate for decades, and many older coins are still out there — including ones with errors. Check your change from grocery stores, vending machines, or even tip jars. If it looks weird, set it aside.
Bank Rolls
Many collectors swear by coin roll hunting — asking the bank for rolls of pennies (usually 50 coins for $0.50) and searching through them one by one. You’d be surprised what turns up: wheat pennies, off-center strikes, even transitional errors. All for face value.
Pro tip: Bring the rolls back once you’re done — banks usually let you exchange them for new ones.
Flea Markets and Yard Sales
Some people sell jars of old coins without checking for value. Keep an eye out for old coffee cans or containers filled with loose change. A few bucks could turn into a serious payday if you spot a valuable error.
Coin Shows and Collector Events
If you want to level up your search, visit a coin show. Dealers often have “junk boxes” of low-priced coins — and occasionally, a real gem slips through. With a sharp eye and a bit of luck, you might spot an undervalued error coin.
Storage Tip: Once you find something interesting, don’t let it rattle around in a drawer. Even minor scratches can lower a coin’s value. Use coin capsules, 2×2 holders, or plastic flips to protect your finds. Treat them like mini lottery tickets — because that’s exactly what they could be.
Every Penny Counts — Literally
A penny might be worth just one cent — until it’s not. As you’ve seen, tiny minting mistakes can turn these little copper coins into collectors’ items worth hundreds or even thousands of dollars.
And the best part is that you don’t need special tools or rare knowledge to start. Just pay attention, use a good magnifier or app like Coin ID Scanner, and don’t rush past coins that look a little “off.” That weird rim, strange letter spacing, or ghostly image might be your clue to something valuable.
Whether you’re new to coin collecting or just curious, remember this: think before you spend — because the next ordinary-looking penny in your pocket might just make history.